This season Visvim explores the traditional craft of herringbone. The following is taken from an interview with development supervisor (NIKKE Textile) Masahiro Ohno.
Fabric development begins with meticulously observing Nakamura’s personal archives, which serve as reference materials. Each individual yarn is read with a loupe and a pair of tweezers, gradually building up the ideal image with his imagination. Once a rough image of the composition is figured out, the type of yarn used to comprise it is worked on. Even with fabrics woven with an original composition of a two-colored warp yarn and a one-colored weft yarn, the depth of the colors would increase due to discoloration over aging and wear and tear. In order to reproduce this depth of colour in the newly created fabric a four-colored warp yarn and three-colored weft yarn composition was needed.
“For example, I took three different types of thin yarn, made up of a spun woolen yarn made with British wool for the weft yarn, a silk nep yarn, and a linen thread to bring out the dry texture, and wove them into a single piece of yarn. The way the colors are coated differently is due to the materials they consist of, which gives off a vibrant and expressive feeling.
The way the fabric is made is surprisingly elaborate. “It’s always this way when I work with Nakamura-san, and we truly start by creating each individual piece of custom yarn.“
Images and text courtesy of Visvim’s Dissertations. Read more here
-Envoy of Belfast